This week we again welcome Bryant Phillips to our occasional column Wine Shop Wednesday. You may remember Bryant from Sturkey’s or Chalk. Currently you can find him at the excellent Wise Owl Wine Bar in West Chester. If you’re anywhere near IKEA, you’re near the Wise Owl. Stop by and have a drink – it’s worth it. I visit whenever I’m on my way home from meetings in Dayton.
I’ve been told on more than one occasion that I drink too much Spanish wine. Truth be told, I really just drink too much. It’s not because Spanish wines are cheap, nor is it because the wholesaler we buy them from is one of my best friends. It’s because the wines are that damn good.
Case in point, the 2007 Vina Godeval from the small D.O. called Valdeorras inside the Galicia region in Northwest Spain. Rias Baixas helped put this craggy rain-washed region on the map with its now famous Albarino wines. The Godeval is 100% Godello. This nearly extinct varietal is indigenous to the region that Verdeho originates. Some say they are genetic cousins.
I’m not usually one for labels, but this one manages to capture the wine in a way that is often missed. The region is very independent from the rest of Spain and being coastal is also very old. There are even rumors that the people are descendants of a Celtic clan way back when. The label’s presentation of classic old world with just enough new world flash presents the bottles contents more than adequate.
Godeval is a great alternative to your other off-chard white wines, with just enough citrus fruit behind the crisp leafy green vegetable notes and striking minerality. Its heritage gives it a less than full body, but enough weight to pair it with heartier spring foods like grilled fish rather than sauteed. It’s perfect for all of the fresh produce at market right now like ramps & fiddlehead ferns. I drink this wine all year, but as we come out of cold-weather Cab season, this is were I’m headed first.
You can be sure there is a bottle of this in every mixed case we’re selling right now and we’re flirting with the idea of pouring a strange, nearly extinct grape by the glass. Guess you’ll have to stop in to see the new list!
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